at last - the descent from Bhara Pokari

The layers which are barely adequate to keep the cold out 'at rest' prove a trial as we begin the descent (which, predictably enough, involves an initial ascent). Breathless and sweating, I have to stop to remove various articles of extraneous clothing. My heart sinks as I watch the others disappear from sight - how will I keep up this pace?

Scrambling down the rocks that were such a challenge on the way up, trying to close the gap, the tension and fear in my body worsens the pain in my knees; I need to stop to swallow a couple of paracetamol. The panorama from this section goes as unnoticed as it was on the way up - all my concentration is in my feet as I slither over boulders, instructed by a slightly impatient Dawa, anxious that I am too slow. To combat being emotionally hassled by my limitations, Karna's quiet steady presence behind me is calming and reassuring.

The incline becomes less steep, moving onto wooded slopes, paths knarled with tree roots.

I can't explain what happens, but as I focus on following in surefooted Dawa's steps exactly, it's as if I literally slip into his wake. My tenseness disappears, I feel energised and light. Euphoric, in fact.

We reach the resting stage, site of my emotional overspill the previous day. Today, our porters are all here - but no sign of my fellow trekkers.

I worry that they may be looking for me, but Karna is dismissive. Just wait. They will catch up.

So we wait.

and wait...

and wait...

Maybe someone has had an accident...